A Taste of Home: Tanghulu
Tanghulu traditionally features red fruits; I used strawberries and cherry tomatoes. Photo: Jin En Li
By JIN EN LI
During the Shaoxi period of the Southern Song Dynasty, Song Guangzong’s favorite imperial noble consort fell ill. Her face was yellow, pale, and thin, and she didn’t want to eat. There were many valuable drugs for imperial medicine, but they had no effect. The emperor tried to find doctors but they all had no idea how to treat this kind of illness.
Then, an unknown man entered the palace and said, “As long as you use sugar and red fruit (hawthorn), and eat five to ten before each meal, she will be fine in less than half a month.” At first, everyone was doubtful, but fortunately, the consort recovered as scheduled. This snack of candied fruit spread to the people, and they stringed it up and sold it, now known as tanghulu.
The first time I tried tanghulu was when I was five, when I came across an old man selling sugar-coated haws on one thick stick. In my experience, the crispy bite of hardened sugar with a bit of sourness from the fruits was a perfect combo. Every time I would pass this old man selling tanghulu, I would beg my dad to buy it for me. His tanghulu tasted the most authentic, and it was one of the best in Brooklyn. Plus, it was cheap — only a dollar! But after the pandemic, the grandpa didn’t return to his usual spot, and I’ve started to miss this part of my childhood.
However, I have my own ways, so I started to make tanghulu at home. It’s actually very simple. First, I gather all my materials, such as my choice of fruits, skewers, water, and sugar. I add white granulated sugar to a pot and then add water that’s half the amount of sugar. I boil this for about five minutes to turn it into syrup, without shaking the pot or stirring it. When it’s ready, I’ll dip in my fruit skewers.
To check if your sugar is ready, dip a chopstick in and sample it. If the sugar sticks to your teeth then it’s not done, but if it’s crunchy, then it’s ready. At that point, turn off the heat and dip in the skewers, evenly distributing the mix around your fruits. Then put the skewer in the freezer immediately. Take it out after ten minutes and enjoy!
My grandma told me that when she was little, she would eat tanghulu every time she got sick. “We were in poverty and couldn't afford to go to the doctor,” she said. It was one of her favorite snacks as a child and still is, though it’s just a little hard for her teeth.
When it’s the New Year, my grandma makes tanghulu for everyone in our family because its red fruits symbolize luck, fortune, and prosperity in Chinese culture. When we see a string of sugar-coated haws, we think that they not only represent reunion and sweetness, but also the close stringing of these beautiful elements, bringing us the taste of joy and happiness.
They’re so easy, so why not try making these tanghulu with your friends and family? If you’re feeling too lazy, you can find them for sale in Flushing and Koreatown. You might just find yourself chasing after these candied fruits in your dreams!