Which Dishes Mean Something Special to You?
Sometimes, a meal is more than just a meal. Here, our writers discuss the dishes that have a special importance for their family, culture, or memories.
Canederli
By AMELIA THORNHILL
Growing up in America made me feel separated from the country my family came from, especially since we don't speak our specific dialect of Italian anymore. My grandmother refused to teach my mother and her sisters the language in fear that they would undo the effort she had made to assimilate into American culture.
That might be why my mother has always been so intent on teaching me the recipes her mom and grandmother made when she was growing up. One of my favorites is canederli.
Canederli is a traditional Tyrolean meal of bread dumplings and meat in broth. Because of Tyrol’s location in the alps, its cuisine has Italian, Austrian, and German influences. The Italian word “canederlo” is derived from the German and Austrian word for dumpling: “knödel.”
My great grandmother Luigia came to America in 1928 when she was 22 years old. She married a 49 year old man, my great grandfather Eduardo, who already lived in America but whose first wife had died. His kids were almost the same age as my great grandmother, but she married him anyway. She moved with him to America because the man she was going to marry in Tyrol had a “crazy” family and a friend who had already married into the family told her to “run like the wind.” My great grandparents settled in the coal mining region of eastern Pennsylvania where there was already an enclave of Tyrolean and other northern Italian immigrants.
My great grandmother had two kids on top of the eight my great grandfather had from his first marriage. Feeding everybody was a big job. “Every time Nonna cooked, she made enough food to feed an army,” my mom said. “She never had a recipe that said ‘serving size 4.’ She would make crustoli [fried orange and anise flavored cookies] at Christmas that would last us until the next year.”
The average batch of canederli feeds about 10 to 15 people. These dumplings were originally made as a way to use day-old dry bread so nothing went to waste, but now we buy fresh bread and purposefully leave it out for a day so it can dry.
In order to make truly authentic canederli you will need to place an order at Tarone’s Market in Hazleton, Pennsylvania for luganega (dry Tyrolean sausage), which can only be done during the sausage making months of December through March. Luckily it freezes pretty well.
From tearing the loaves of bread and prepping the meat to mixing all the ingredients thoroughly and forming the dumplings, canederli is definitely an involved process that tests your commitment to the dish. It may seem like a lot of effort, but biting into that first warm, cheesy, salty, meaty dumpling makes it all worth it, especially on a cold day.
Cantonese Steamed Fish
By ERIC FENG
They say that certain tastes and smells have the ability to reveal nostalgic memories, and for me, that is surely true when it comes to Cantonese steamed fish. Originating in Guangdong, China, the cuisine is most prominent in family dinners, Chinese New Year celebrations, and weddings. To me, it is more than just a dish; it symbolizes family and friendship. Every bite reminds me of cherished moments at family reunions. The recipe I attempted to make came from my dad, making it even more special for me.
In my dad’s earlier years, he resided in mainland China. His family would indulge in this cuisine almost every two weeks. “I would always be happy when I saw mom making it at night,” he said. A meal of Cantonese steamed fish was also seen as good fortune for whoever could partake.
During my childhood, I witnessed the financial hardships my parents faced as a result of immigrating to the U.S. I became motivated to do anything to support my family. So when my parents would cook, I would always like to try to learn every step they did for every dish. Cantonese steamed fish became one of the most memorable dishes in my young mind because it embodied the values of sharing and kindness. The mere thought of sharing food and conversation evoked the beauty of life.
I highly recommend learning to cook Cantonese steamed fish because it's incredibly easy to prepare and it's also delicious. The simplicity of the dish showcases the freshness of the ingredients well, and each bite you take is delicately infused with soy sauce, scallions, and ginger. This steamed fish captures the essence of Cantonese culture and leaves a long-lasting impression.
ShakshukA
By RUNA ALSEIDI
Shakshuka is a Yemeni dish that is also well known in many other Middle Eastern countries. The word “shakshuka” means “all mixed up” or “shaken” in Arabic. This dish is basically a layered dip of potatoes, tomatoes, and eggs, dipped or scooped with bread.
Shakshuka is known to be a breakfast dish, and growing up, it was my go-to. Not only is it tasty, but it is extremely easy to make.
I've tried many people's shakshukas; they're all delicious, but I believe that my mom makes it best. My family and I enjoy spicy foods, so we go all in with the jalapeños. We often make this dish during Ramadan before sunrise. It’s a comfort meal that fits all seasons as well.
We Arabs are traditional eaters. That means that we don't really have our own plates; instead, we make a big pot of food and share it. It makes the meal more fun and meaningful because our entire family gathers around and we spend quality time together. I have a family of six, and sometimes fighting over the last bite gets annoying. However, it's still a tradition that I would never give up.
We have our morals with the way we eat as well. We always say a short prayer first. It’s crucial that we eat with our right hands. And we must always eat from the pot in front of us because eating from the other side is considered bad manners, especially since, as mentioned, we are traditional eaters.
If you’re looking for a healthy, filling, authentically Middle Eastern experience, you should give shakshuka a try.
Chicken Biryani
By CHURAYA ISLAM
Ever since I was young, biryani has been one of the main dishes in my life. Whether it was a party, a family get-together, or a birthday, you'd always make biryani; it’s just the tradition of us South Asians. Making biryani is a love language in my family.
Every year since my 8th birthday, my nanu (“grandma” in Bangla) would make biryani for me. She would express her love through cooking, and biryani was that extra love on the side.
“Cooking for the family makes me so happy, but cooking traditional biryani makes me even happier,” my nanu told me.
It's been a while since I’ve had my grandma’s chicken biryani since she’s in Bangladesh now, but when I video called her to show her I used her recipe to make biryani for the first time, she was the happiest! I was proud of myself too because of how good it came out, though it made me miss my homeland.
“I’m so happy that you learned,” Nanu said. “Now you can take over the kitchen and cook all the time.”
You can use any type of protein you want, but I prefer chicken, because it just makes everything better. Making biriyani does take at least an hour but it's not as complex as everyone thinks it is.
A couple tips: Marinate and fry your chicken early on until it turns a light golden color. This way, your chicken won’t fall apart later on. And along with all your seasonings, make sure to use the Shan chicken biryani masala pack. It’s a must!
Oladi
By SASHA L. SMOLANSKY
Oladi is a recipe that my family has adored for years. It is a Ukrainian pancake featuring zucchini and yogurt that my family carried with them and passed on for several generations. Though they constantly immigrated across Europe in hopes of escaping prejudice and war, no matter where they lived, one thing remained unchanged: our oladi recipe.
“My mother made this, and her mother, and her mother before her. Now I teach my children and grandchildren so it won’t be forgotten,” my grandmother Genya said.
When I eat her oladi, it transports me to a summer a few years ago, when my grandmother was first diagnosed with breast cancer. Despite undergoing chemotherapy and a double mastectomy, she remained strong and continued to care for her family. That summer, without fail, she still made us her perfect oladi, crafting beauty during a time of great difficulty.
“No matter what, cooking for my family brings me peace,” she explained.
Seeing as she has been making and perfecting this dish for so long, she knows the right consistency in her fingertips and the perfect ingredient measurements in her heart.
“The kefir or yogurt can be plain or a flavor of your choice,” she told me. “You can use your hands or a spoon when scooping out the mix, but I use an ice cream scoop to get a perfect circular oladi every time.” She once used strawberry yogurt as an experiment, she said, and the oladi came out pink.
Oladi are light, appetizing, and refreshing – a perfect summer dish. You can enjoy them by themselves or with a dollop of sour cream, aka smitana.
Now, in my bittersweet summer moments, Genya’s oladi seem more delicious than ever to me. I cherish her creations and her presence because I know that these precious moments are forever fleeting.